[HOME] HOW TO CARE FOR AUSTRALIAN FRESHWATER TORTOISES Page 5 INDOOR LIVING QUARTERS (continued) Indoor Tanks: The Rock Pile: One essential for a tortoise tank is at least one good pile of rocks. The tortoises need a pile of rocks or stones which rises above water level because: (a) they need support when surfacing for air, (b) they like to climb out of the water occasionally, (c) their instinct leads them to wedge themselves between rocks at night and while they are sleeping, for protection. Rocks should be well balanced so that they do not fall on the tortoises, and they should be smooth, preferably water-worn, from a stream or river so that they donot damage the plastrons. Using silicone sealer, the special glue used in making aquariums, it is possible for the tortoise keeper to build a custom-made rock pile for the aquarium, with caves and crevices for the pets to hide in. Otherwise you must rebuild the rock pile each time after you have cleaned the tank. Make sure a more or less horizontal or slightly sloping surface of rock, rises above the water level in the tank. Half of a clean earthenware plant-pot makes a good tortoise-cave: break the pot vertically, down each side. Clean, smooth, mortar-free bricks can also be used. Tortoises cannot swim backwards. Ensure that there are no places in the tank where they might get stuck underwater and drown. If ever a tortoise does appear to be drowned it may be revived by holding it so that any water runs out of the lungs, keeping it warm and giving artificial respiration. This has been known to work successfully. Indoor Tanks: Water Level: Water level should not reach the top of the aquarium in case the tortoises climb out and try to escape while the cover is off. Also, it is hard to build a rock pile this high. In a 12 inch high (30 cm high) tank, for example, the water fills over two thirds of the tank. Indoor Tanks: Water Conditioning: Before the animals are placed in their new home their water must be conditioned. In the wild, their environment is often a little brackish, so add about one rounded teaspoonful of common IODISED table salt per 23 litres (5 gallons) of fresh water. It is very important that calcium must also be added to the water. Tortoises need plenty of calcium for their shells, which are really a tortoise's skeleton. Powdered calcium may be obtained from pet shops (it, is often given to puppies and kittens) or from pharmacists, where the brand name is "D.C.P.".   Add one heaped tablespoon of calcium powder to a 46 litre (ten gallon) tank. Don't be alarmed when the water goes cloudy white - the calcium does take several hours to settle, and the cloudiness is harmless to the tortoises. Do not forget to add the calcium and salt every time you change the water when cleaning the tank. If you live in an area where the tap water is fairly heavily chlorinated (such as parts of South Australia), then it is best to let the water stand in a container for a few days before putting living creatures into it. There must always be a "neutralizer block" in the tank with the tortoises.   Their excretions.make the water acid.   The neutralizer block counteracts this, and at the same time slowly releases valuable minerals and some calcium into the water.   1 have used HYKRO "Nutra Vitalizer" and HYKRO "Tonic Block", both of which are very good. MENU: Tortoise Descriptions: PAGE 1 PAGE 2 PAGE 3 Indoor Living Quarters: PAGE 4 PAGE 5 PAGE 6 PAGE 7 PAGE 8 PAGE 9 Outdoor Living Quarters: PAGE 10 Feeding: PAGE 11 Hibernation: PAGE 12 Ailments: PAGE 13 Behaviour and Intelligence: PAGE 14 How Old is the Tortoise? PAGE 14 Dangers: PAGE 15 Reproduction and Sexual Differences PAGE 15 References: PAGE 16